When Dawid Andres first dreamed of crossing the South American continent along with his half-brother Hubert Kisiński, the thought of bolting bikes to pontoons and descending the Amazon River was the furthest factor from his thoughts.
The plan to start with was extra smart: Bike from the Pacific to the supply of the Amazon, then kayak four,000 miles to the Atlantic. However the extra the Polish brothers discovered about the associated fee and trouble of importing kayaks into Peru, the higher these YouTube movies of selfmade water bikes seemed.
The run-ins with pirates continued.
“It wasn’t our aim to be the primary Amazon bikers. It simply turned out to be the most cost effective approach,” Dawid says of their 6-month journey from September 2015 to March 2016.
The journey should be a document of some sort, however the brothers weren’t in it to make a reputation for themselves. For Dawid, 44, the expedition was a grand journey and an opportunity to reconnect along with his brother. Dawid left Poland for America when Hubert was nonetheless a child. Hubert, 35, had been swept up within the heroin epidemic that ravaged his technology of Poles. Now clear and married with two younger sons, the journey for him was greater than an journey. It was remedy.
Hubert took the lead in constructing the Amazon bikes, hybrid craft with a bicycle body mounted between a pair of 10-foot inflatable pontoons. The pedals flip a propeller by means of a mechanism that defies easy clarification, pushing the contraptions alongside on the stately fee of 6 kilometers per hour. The brothers examined the water bikes on a river in Poland, however the actual trial would come on the broad waters of the Amazon and its highly effective tributaries.
Earlier than they might strap the pontoons on their bikes they needed to journey some 1,200 miles from Peru’s Pacific coast, throughout the excessive Andes to the Amazon headwaters. They climbed a dozen passes of four,000 meters (13,000 ft) or extra and stopped at 16,870 ft for a ceremonial dip in Lake Ticlla Cocha, one of many Amazon’s highest most-distant and highest sources. Nonetheless on two wheels, they adopted the trail of the Apurimac River, skipping the Amazon tributary’s 500-mile gauntlet of Class V whitewater.
The Andes steep slopes and skinny air introduced the journey’s hardest bodily challenges, however the psychological grind and sketchy encounters have been solely starting. The brothers have been robbed for the primary time within the Crimson Zone, a area with a repute for lawlessness the place many individuals sincerely imagine outsiders kill indigenous folks for his or her organs.
As Dawid tells it, the bandits have been a examine in ineptitude. They roared up on motorbikes, which toppled over and lay idling within the gravel all through the holdup. When Dawid stepped ahead to assist them decide up the machines, one of many boys—he was not more than 16—leveled a shotgun at him.
“I wasn’t actually scared till they seemed into my first assist package and located surgical scissors and began shouting, ‘You got here right here to chop out the eyes of kids!’” Dawid advised Polish newspaper Gazeta Wyborcza. The stress eased a second later when one other bandit discovered Hubert’s wad of money. Because the boys pocketed the cash, Dawid appealed to their higher natures.
“I mentioned, ‘Guys, we’ve got 200 kilometers of jungle to journey. Should you take cash from us, we are going to starve.’ And of the 500 soles (about $150) they pulled out 200 and gave it again to us.” The bandits then posed for an image, hoisted their fallen motorbikes and rode away.
The brothers removed their scalpel and scissors and pedaled on. Days later they arrived in Atalaya on the banks of the Ucayali River, the place Hubert spent a number of days mounting the bikes to the inflatable pontoons and fine-tuning the propeller drives. They waited just a few extra days for his or her Ashaninka information, Felipe Suarez Ruiz, to reach. The brothers thought of going forward with out him, however the final Poles to go that approach alone had been killed and chopped to items.
The brothers determined to attend, heeding the recommendation of Piotr Chmielinski, the Polish-American explorer who was first to descent the Amazon from supply to sea 30 years in the past. Chmielinski grew to become the brothers’ number-one fan, writing a dozen expedition updates for Explorersweb and providing them the advantage of his connections and good counsel.
The brothers judged the catamarans unsinkable, however fearful concerning the energy of the pedal drives. The mechanisms have been fragile and subsequent to ineffective towards quick currents or sturdy winds. Nonetheless, when a whirlpool caught Hubert and spun him in circles like a large liquid merry-go-round, Dawid was assured sufficient to present it a strive. “I fell into this vortex, fired GoPro and began recording. Hubert shouted: ‘Dawid, get out of there!”
He pedaled furiously because the whirlpool pulled him towards the opening in its heart, a funnel six ft deep and filled with fallen branches and different particles. Then, simply as immediately, the vortex disappeared. Chastened, the brothers pedaled on to their subsequent journey.
Weeks later rows of symmetrical waves rose seemingly out of nowhere, practically upsetting their craft earlier than subsiding as shortly as that they had come. The thriller was defined that night, when an aftershock shook the village the place they have been staying. Chmielinski later found the unusual waves had been brought on by an earthquake measuring 7.6 on the Richter scale.
“It wasn’t our aim to be the primary Amazon bikers. It simply turned out to be the most cost effective approach,”
Most days have been much less eventful. The brothers spent the sunlight hours on the river, pedaling in 15 minute shifts with 5 minutes of relaxation between. Or quite Hubert did. Dawid was slower, and sometimes pedaled via his relaxation interval to catch as much as his brother. The lads cooked and napped on plywood platforms lashed between the pontoons of their unusual craft, coming ashore to camp and resupply in cities alongside the way in which. Their brothers’ openness and cheerful smiles received them associates alongside the river, they usually have been typically moved by the kindness of the folks they met.
In Tabatinga, on the border of Peru, Colombia and Brazil round Christmas and an area household took them in for the vacations. Adorning the tree they have been delighted to see hecho en Polonia—made in Poland—inscribed on the lights.
The run-ins with pirates continued. Within the remoted stretch of river above Manaus, a ship filled with males circled them 4 instances, after which left. On one other event, a pair of strung out bandits accosted them and determined that they had nothing value stealing.
The brother’s technique in these encounters was the identical because it was with everybody they met: Huge smiles and pleasant banter, both in rudimentary Spanish or barely understandable Portuguese. “Our weapon in such conditions has all the time been good discuss,” Dawid advised Gazeta. So when 5 males roared up in a motorboat bristling with weapons, he began a dialog.
“I’m standing on this boat with my arms over my head. I’m rocking, afraid I’m going to fall, and this man is aiming at me with a gun sufficiently big to kill an elephant with,” he says. “I advised them we’re Poles, good folks, we like Brazilians very a lot and need to expertise an journey right here.” Lastly, as one of many males examined the pontoons in search of medication to steal, Dawid requested if that they had any beer. The pirates burst out laughing, and left with out taking something.
For months, the brothers merely pedaled downstream. It’s exhausting to get misplaced on a river, however once they reached the Amazon’s huge delta navigation immediately grew to become an issue. The delta is 200 miles extensive, with scores of channels and an island the scale of Switzerland within the center. Aided by Chmielinski, who adopted their progress on-line, they disassembled their catamarans and continued on two wheels. The roads on Chmielinski’s maps and satellite tv for pc photographs turned out to be mere tracks, and at instances the brothers needed to hack their approach via the jungle.
The hardship introduced out the very best in Hubert. “He has an extremely sturdy psyche,” Dawid advised Gazeta. “On the finish of the journey he was unbreakable. I used to be falling out from fatigue, saying I can’t go any additional. Hubert all the time replied with laughter and mentioned, ‘Dude, let’s go on! GPS reveals that in a second we’re leaving the jungle.’”
Finally they adopted a line of phone poles to Belem, a metropolis of two million on the Rio Pará, effectively upstream of the Atlantic. Dawid and Hubert traveled the final 120 miles by bike, on dust roads minimize via the jungle. They reached the Atlantic on March 6, 2016, six months and roughly 5,000 miles after setting out from Peru’s Pacific coast.
Reflecting on the journey, Dawid says they by no means would have began in the event that they knew the hazards and hardships forward. Nor may both brother have completed the journey with out the opposite. Hubert’s mechanical aptitude and regular demeanor saved the expedition many instances, and the Amazon remedy, as Hubert calls it, was a hit as effectively.
“What was harder to beat, the Amazon or medication?” Hubert advised Chmielinski. “Positively, the latter. On the Amazon you may name for assist when issues go flawed, however with an dependancy you need to cope alone otherwise you drown.”
With Dawid at his aspect, Hubert discovered a approach via the metaphorical jungle. “When issues went flawed at the hours of darkness of the jungle I may see the solar,” he advised Chmielinski. “After which with my machete I used to be capable of minimize my approach via to the sunshine.”
—All photographs courtesy Dawid Andres and Hubert Kisiński